Gucci, Post-Alessandro Michele, Looks To The Past
Gucci debuted its Fall / Winter 2023 Menswear Collection and opened the menswear portion of Milan Fashion Week.
The show comes amid the French luxury company Kering’s search for a new creative director. An-house team sans Alessandro Michele designed a subdued and whimsical collection stripped of Michele’s signature maximalism.
Gucci’s Improvisation of Masculinity
Accompanied by the band Ceramic Dog, the show takes reference from the brand’s previous eras and improvises a man’s standard wardrobe. It is also a presentation of various masculinities a man can mold himself to be.
Detachable suits cut at the arm and knee allow one modify a standard suit into a sleeveless jacket and shorts and express a spirit of improvisation. Moreover, a focus on androgyny appears as trousers move to reveal ankle-length skirts and feminine 1980’s inspired sportswear is sprinkled in. Male models also wear tight silhouettes that emphasize the fluidity of gender.
A Walk Through The Archives Of Gucci
The brand also played with nostalgia and referenced different eras in its past, notably Tom Ford including various heritage items. Leather and metallic either complemented simple garments or used on their own and gave Y2K nostalgia.
In addition, the show features updated versions of iconic archival items. Ford’s Pistol Lock creation updates the Jackie bag and the Crystal GG canvas features in carryall style bags.
What’s Next?
The intermixing of eras celebrates the history of the brand, but it also leaves the viewers unsure of what is to come and compounded by the lack of a creative director. The contrast between this collection and Michele’s romantic aesthetic might be to differentiate the future of Gucci from Michele. Michele’s impact on pop culture and his own celebrity status also might leave the brand in a difficult position of finding a creative director as beloved and impactful.