Alexandre Vauthier Fall 2023
A mere five weeks after couture week, Alexandre Vauthier presented his Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week. Vauthier is a couturier at heart, but one that seeks democratization of an often intimidating craft. His long standing tradition of echoing his couture in ready-to-wear parallels his opposing inspirations – bold 1980s glamour and traces of Americana. Call him up if one needs to suppress extravagance. The problem lies when RTW is simply an imitation of a better collection. It results in clothes that don’t have the tailoring or silhouettes that elevate couture.
The collection comprised 12 pieces, all of which had only small tweaks from the Spring / Summer 2023 show. A boxy top paired with an asymmetrical pouf skirt opened the show. It was a tamer and rounder version of a hot pink couture pouf piece. Small tweaks such as these are often seen on the length or shape of previous collections.
Next come plush faux fur coats with a hood in gray and lime green. This perhaps is the smartest move in the Fall collection. An updated version of a shorter coat in the couture collection equals buyers. The move is largely financially beneficial while creativity is somewhat lacking.
After a near identical shiny rhodoid dress comes the most casual of all pieces. There goes a two piece dotted black jacket and trousers that don’t seem quite fitted. The attempt to appeal to a non-couture crowd borders on tacky even though the couture version wasn’t particularly spectacular. But perhaps the biggest mistake is the lack of a distinct cohesion between the pieces. Studded hoodies with awkward draping follows casual pieces like jumpsuits.
Finally, the closing look is a black dress cinched with a glossy belt. It is one of the better pieces of a collection that seems too hung up on what came before. Vauthier fails to create newer, more engaging garments by perhaps using a certain pattern or material. He simply makes something longer, something shorter but ultimately nothing interesting.
Take a look at the full collection below:
All Images via Alexandre Vauthier
Featured Image Via Alexandre Vauthier