Rodarte Fall / Winter 2023

Model walks the runway

Rodarte Fall / Winter 2023

Rodarte, the brainchild of sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, debuted its Fall / Winter collection at New York Fashion Week. The collection departed from the brand’s standard aesthetic and leaned towards a vampiric fantasy, reminiscent of Vampira or Black Swan. Normally feminine and frilly, sprawling sleeves and black lipstick set against a glittering silver backdrop graced the runway instead. According to Laura Mulleavy, the show is a story about gothic fairies and inspired by their mother’s drawings.  

A Gothic Fantasy

The opening look was a simple, shapely dress and a criss-crossed V-neck and floor length sleeves. This relaxed silhouette continued for multiple looks as the designers played around with necklines. Modest tops gave way to loose pleats that showcased the Mulleavys’ talent at tailoring that effortlessly flows together. 

Lace and embroidery, a Rodarte custom, appeared and worn as capes, gowns and embellishments. One look in particular was faultless and regal, fit for the queen of the Underworld herself. The model wore a velvet turtleneck piece over a semi-sheer lace gown whose train trailed in the back. Pieces of torn fabric also appeared on some sleeves and gave the impression of a half human, half bird creature. 

Where Art Thou Fairies?  

Next came outfits resembling Victorian academia, a strange choice that deviated from the collection’s established intent. Some looks were a combination of the key elements of the outfits prior – jersey dresses, floral motifs, lace thrown together with little semblance of flow.

Afterwards, the collection continued with a fairly colorful palette that bore little similarity with the beginning or concept of “gothic fairies”. Suddenly, metal made its way into the show and was used in fringe dresses that gave a pop to bulging, velvet sleeves. Following that, a line of monastic robes accessorized with tulle and prints of goblins and fairies interrupted the 1920’s nostalgia. The show ended with two fantastical metal gowns in silver and gold. The former gave a nod to the original idea of fairies being adorned with wings and a crown of sorts. However, the gold resembled a directionless shrub that was memorable only in its coloring. 

All Images Via Vogue Runway

Featured Image Via Idaho State Journal

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