Hemu A/W 2023
Hemu, founded by Yang Fengrui, presented its Autumn / Winter 2023 collection at Shanghai Fashion Week. Founded in 2010, the brand is fairly young but chooses to reject trends for tradition. Fengrui chooses to focus on oriental clothing and utilizes Chinese weaving and craftsmanship in his work. His designs also focus on the balance between ornate Chinese designs and low-key minimalism.
Though he studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins, his focus has been in China and consequently Asia. Hemu’s customer base is largely domestic but the attention on Shanghai this year may attract new customers.
A conservative brown dress with cuffed sleeves worn with leather boots opens the show. Silver jewelry peeked from underneath as did a printed purse. The look is a glance at the fundamentals of the entire collection. Layering, opposing patterns or colors provide a homespun feel.
Shades of red appear frequently and are a reflection of its significance in Chinese culture. The color, symbolizing joy and luck, also colors the national flag and may be interpreted as a tribute to national identity.
Drapey or slouchy silhouettes also largely make up the collection. Tight fitting clothing layer upon each other. The layering could be taken to an extreme but Fengrui uses pieces to make sure each aspect of the look is shown. The result appears to look like a collage of sorts.
A queue of black and gold appears at the end. Male models wear attire similar to a Tang Suit with draping with gold printing. Gold designs outline long monastic robes and worn over cinched waists.
The collection veers towards androgyny as the looks seem interchangeable for both men and women. Designs shy away from being gaudy and the decision to use layering serves as a perfect transition from summer to fall. Hemu achieves a nice balance of tradition and modernity that would not look out of place in a city.
Take a look at some of the highlights below:
Featured Image Via Global Times
All Images Via Shanghai Fashion Week