Adrian Appioloza Introduces A Refined Moschino
The newest era of Moschino was unveiled at creative director Adrian Appioloza’s debut at the Fall 2024/2025 ready-to-wear show during Milan Fashion Week. Held on Friday, 23rd February, at 1:00 SGT at Museo della Permanente, the event was a highly anticipated one, following the sudden passing of the initial successor, Davide Renne, and the departure of predecessor Jeremy Scott – who was at the helm since 2013.
In a press release the day prior, the Italian house said, “At this collection’s heart, is a reflection of Moschino’s soul. Playfulness, irreverence, startling originality.” The collection emulated that very sentiment upon incorporating notable motifs synonymous with the brand. An inclusion of question mark emblems, smiley faces, and ties fashioned into headpieces and garments put the concept of “fun fashion” on full display. Appioloza evidently sought out aspects of Moschino’s archive in his decision to pick polka-dots, pearls, ruffles, and t-shirts with calls to action as well.
But the numerous references to Moschino S/S 1994 were most distinctive, namely the newspaper print, the red heart-shaped bag, and a model carrying “lettuce” and a “baguette” – both of which were bags. The nods to the Italian flag as well as the use of trompe-l’oeil and surrealism are especially indicative of how the brand’s identity will continue with Appioloza, but may begin to be significantly understated and modest.
Appioloza’s first collection was a declaration of sorts, subtly making it known he’d be leading in a distinct direction from the work of his predecessor.
The camp element associated with the brand is seemingly being superseded by elements of minimalism and quiet luxury, which signifies a conformation to trends – something seldom seen from Moschino. He seems to want the brand to become more wearable compared to previous seasons, as he’s striving to place a balance between his artistry and Moschino’s history. A trenchcoat, blazer, and bomber jacket paired with a maxi skirt, an oversized cable knit sweater with ruffle skirts and loose jeans, and slip dresses paired with pearls could easily pass as a quintessential everyday look.
A plethora of Spring trends were implemented, including sheer layering, roses, bows, and perennial pops of red. The forefront of the color palette were muted tones, such as khaki, black, gray, cream, and shades of brown. Some looks were complemented by pops of reds and soft pastel hues, such as light blue and pink.
According to a press release, Appioloza’s debut can only be seen as a taste of his artistry and an innuendo of what we can expect from him. “This is a collection founded in tailoring and craft, but also in ideology. Today, Franco Moschino’s universal, all-inclusive messages of peace and love feel as relevant and timely as they did in the past – here, reiterated for a new generation, a new era, with the same impact.”
The Moschino Fall 2024/2025 Ready-to-Wear runway show offered an astounding level of thought, care, and regard for the house’s as well as the chance for Appioloza to re-establish his expertise. This new era for Moschino is one that is intriguing and has great potential.
Featured Image from iStock