Grace Coddington: A Creative Force in Fashion
In the kaleidoscopic world of fashion, where creativity is a currency, Grace Coddington has been an enigmatic presence, pushing the boundaries of imagination and style. Her journey is not your typical rags-to-riches tale; it’s a captivating narrative of reinvention, resilience, and unrivaled creativity. At the dawn of 2016, Coddington made a remarkable move that surprised many in the fashion industry. She stepped down from her role as the creative director of American Vogue, a position she held since 1988, and assumed a newly minted role as the “creative director-at-large.” This transition allowed her to explore new horizons and engage in external projects, marking a shift in her illustrious career.
“I’m not running away from Vogue, because it has opened so many doors,” Coddington confessed to Business of Fashion. “But it will be nice to collaborate, and nice to go out [and] give talks to people.” Grace’s passion for fashion has always been as vibrant as her iconic fiery hair, and this new role allows her to share that passion with the world in diverse and exciting ways.
Coddington’s journey into the heart of fashion began in London’s swinging sixties when she was a young model. She catapulted into the spotlight after winning a Vogue modeling competition, earning her a coveted spot in the magazine’s “young ideas” section. Her unique look, often accompanied by Vidal Sassoon’s iconic five-point cut, quickly established her as a prominent figure in London’s fashion scene. Her remarkable bone structure and elegant neck were memorable qualities that helped her stand out.
However, a car accident at the age of 26 made Coddington’s modeling career come to a halt, forcing her to pivot her ambitions. Interestingly, her experience in front of the camera, where models were responsible for their own hair, makeup, and accessories, provided her with an invaluable skill set. Her ability to enhance a photo shoot by styling herself caught the eye of Beatrix Miller, the then-editor of British Vogue, who offered her a job as a junior fashion editor at the publication. It was a move that would forever change the course of her career.
Grace Coddington quickly excelled in her new role, showcasing a natural talent for fashion editing. She steadily climbed the ranks at British Vogue and ultimately attained the prestigious position of senior fashion editor in 1976. Yet, her journey was far from over.
In 1987, Grace Coddington departed from British Vogue to assume the role of design director at Calvin Klein. Her association with Calvin Klein marked a pivotal moment in her career and the fashion industry at large. Klein himself acknowledged that she was the first European fashion editor to fully appreciate American design, making her an invaluable asset to the brand.
The turning point came when Anna Wintour, a former colleague and influential figure in the fashion world, extended an offer that would alter the course of Coddington’s life once again. Wintour invited her to join the ranks of American Vogue as the creative director in 1988. Coddington’s acceptance of this offer left Wintour overjoyed, and it marked the beginning of a remarkable chapter in American fashion journalism.
After three decades at American Vogue, Grace Coddington chose to take a bold step in her career by pursuing external projects while continuing to remain actively involved as editor-at-large. “It’s just another approach. I’m certainly not going into retirement. I don’t want to sit around,” Coddington expressed to Business of Fashion. Her decision reflects her unwavering commitment to the world of fashion, where her distinctive, romantic, rich, and detailed aesthetic plays a pivotal role. Her approach places a strong emphasis on powerful visual narratives that rely on beauty, not allegory, to captivate the audience.
R.J. Cutler, the director of the documentary film The September Issue, once spent a year in the hallowed halls of American Vogue, closely following its inhabitants. He famously remarked, “Every billboard, fashion magazine spread, every advertisement we see today has been influenced by Grace Coddington.” Her influence transcends the pages of a magazine, shaping the visual landscape of the entire fashion industry.
Although her journey began at the age of eighteen, when Coddington won a modeling competition run by Vogue, this moment set her on the path to a successful career in fashion. In 1968, her innate interest in styling shoots led her to work for British Vogue, where she quickly rose to the position of Photo Editor. For many years, she collaborated closely with top photographers, weaving fantastical and theatrical narratives for the magazine’s fashion pages.
Grace Coddington’s return to Vogue in 1988 marked the beginning of an era where her creative brilliance truly came to the forefront. Her unique ability to bring fashion to life, creating captivating stories through the lens of the camera, left an indelible mark on the industry. Her work was not just about clothing; it was about storytelling, about taking the audience on a journey into a world where fashion was more than just fabric and stitches—it was an art form.
In a world where creativity is king, Grace Coddington reigns supreme. Her career is a testament to her artistic prowess and unwavering dedication to the world of fashion. And as she embarks on new adventures outside the confines of Vogue, one thing is certain: The industry will continue to be shaped and inspired by “The Cod,” a remarkable figure who has forever changed the way we perceive fashion.
Featured photo by Eugene Vernier for British Vogue, 1966.