FANG NYC SS27 Blurs the Line Between Human and Machine
FANG NYC stepped into the future for Spring/Summer 2027, presenting a collection during New York Fashion Week that explored the evolving relationship between the human body, technology, movement, and clothing.
Under the creative direction of designer Fang Guo, the New York-based label envisioned the season through the idea of a bionic dancer, bringing together futuristic construction and fluid movement. Drawing inspiration from science fiction and fantasy cinema,particularly Alex Garland’s Ex Machina, Guo examined the tension between the organic and synthetic at a moment when artificial intelligence continues to reshape contemporary culture.
That contrast extended into the collection’s visual language. The stark architecture and natural landscapes associated with Ex Machina informed a wardrobe where industrial structures met softer, more instinctive forms.
The human skeleton emerged as one of the collection’s strongest references. FANG NYC translated its framework into geometric knitwear using a newly developed stitch that contrasts vertical and horizontal ribbing. The technique traced the body’s natural structure while giving garments a graphic, almost engineered appearance.
Dual-tone plating created optical effects across several pieces, while chunky ribbing introduced another dimension. Raised surfaces along the front and concave detailing at the back transformed knitwear into sculptural forms that appeared to shift as models moved.
But SS27 wasn’t entirely mechanical.
Silken, draped, and layered knits brought a softer romanticism to the runway. Semi-attached layers moved independently from the garments underneath, allowing fabric to float around the body and creating a sense of freedom against the collection’s more architectural elements.
FANG NYC also expanded its exploration of workwear and specialized sportswear. Double-knee carpenter silhouettes appeared in substantial twill suiting, bridging casual utility and formal dressing. Equestrian influences were reinterpreted through denim and leather, while the season marked the label’s first venture into tailored suiting. Structured blazers and vests introduced a sharper level of precision to Guo’s evolving design vocabulary.
Movement remained central throughout the collection. Recurring A-line dresses and skirts created volume around the body, reinforcing the connection to dance and allowing silhouettes to transform in motion.
The result was a collection built on compelling contradictions: anatomical yet abstract, structured yet fluid, masculine and feminine, technological and deeply human.
Those contrasts have long been central to FANG NYC. Founded by Guo as a gender-expansive label, the brand approaches fashion as a space for liberated and subversive expression, challenging conventional boundaries between masculinity and femininity while remaining rooted in statement knitwear.
Born and raised in Beijing, educated at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, and now based in New York, Guo brings multiple cultural perspectives into his work. His experiences within queer communities have similarly informed a design philosophy that embraces opposing forces rather than asking them to exist separately.
For Spring/Summer 2027, that philosophy found a particularly timely expression. As the boundaries between people and technology become increasingly complicated, FANG NYC imagined a future where fashion doesn’t have to choose between the human and the machine.
Runway Photography by ETERNO