Raf Simon’s Prada- SS26 Menswear
For Prada’s Spring/Summer ‘26 Menswear collection, Raf Simon’s iconic creative input peaks within design details and tailoring. This season’s ode to weather and adaptation sets the mood of collaboration. Contrasting his structured, military-inspired silhouettes with Miuccia Prada’s feminine touches, the two designers merge together an effortless, breezy line of delicate menswear.
Softness and extreme structure sit side-by-side this season at Prada. The SS26 collection quietly subverts menswear tradition, favoring dropped shoulders, elongated proportions, and unexpected fabrics—cottons that drape like silk, technical nylons used with the lightness of linen. The tranquil soundtrack paired well with the subtle color palette: warm neutrals, washed pastels, and cloud-like greys float through the lineup, grounding the collection’s wearability. While some looks may feel minimal and stripped down, others feature intricate fastenings, sharp pleats, and subtle stitch detailing that reveals a working hand—unmistakably Simons.
Though Prada remains a female-led Italian house under Miuccia Prada,Simons’ growing fingerprint on the menswear lines signals a deepening creative partnership which must be analyzed. Known for his passion for youthful culture, rebellion, and clean precision within tailoring, Raf Simons offers a clinical take on fashion—one that differs yet complements Prada’s introspective and ironic sensibility that is celebrated in contrast. It’s that tension that makes SS26 the compelling line of uncertainty. Simons’ past collections has always hinted at a kind of romanticism through rigidity; within Prada, this sensibility is softened, producing clothing that feels less like a loud statement and more like a suggestion.
Simons’ intellectual approach to structured narrative design seamlessly aligns with Prada’s legacy. As Robert Williams of The Business of Fashion notes, “The appointment of Raf Simons as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada in 2020 kicked off a historic partnership between two of the world’s most well-regarded design stars — and by 2022 their vision for the Prada brand had fully trickled down into the business.”1¹ Following the success of Prada’s sister label, Miu Miu, the main line has continued its trajectory with recent, strategic adjustments. The fusion of Simons’ menswear precision with Prada’s feminine qualities has the industry on edge.
There’s speculation that Simons may be steering more of the men’s direction as the seasons go on. While Miuccia continues to shape Prada’s philosophical identity, Simons’ tailoring and love for subculture brings a dynamic edge. It’s this push and pull—between past and future, softness and severity—that gives Prada’s menswear its dependence. SS26 hushes the noise with a bird’s whisper.
Featured image “Days of Summer” Prada campaign.
- Robert Williams, “Inside Prada’s Best Year of Business,” The Business of Fashion, March 9, 2023,/https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/prada-reports-highest-ever-annual-sales/ ↩︎