Presley Oldham S/S 2025 Presentation
Presley Oldham debuted on the New York Fashion Week calendar with a presentation at BOOM at The Standard, High Line for the Spring/Summer 2025 season.
Clamshells pried open, pearls glistening under the sun. Sandy feet and sunkissed cheeks, a slow summer day. Wide eyed and grinning, basking in the sunset. Sprouts growing, popping through the dirt, and blooming at daybreak, the collection celebrated arrival, expanse, and growth.
Handcraft united the collection, thoughtfully engaging with unique materials sourced across the world. Fans of the designer recognized his best-selling pearl styles, reinterpreted for the new season alongside the introduction of new designs made with bespoke glass and carved gemstones in organic shapes. Handmade beaded flowers were a focal point of the collection, the majority of which were made by Oldham’s grandmother, Linda Oldham, across decades of her life, others antiques they collected together. Inspired by fields of wildflowers sprouting up and taking over patches of grass, the beaded flower pieces grew from a single flower wrapped around the neck into intricate bouquets of flowers wrapping the body in an array of technicolor glass seed beads.
Oldham’s craft is shown through his dedication to innovative techniques. Wire wrapping, a hallmark of the designer, is showcased alongside classic silk stringing, Indian embroidery, solder work, lampwork glass, knits and crochets, and silversmithing. Artisans were engaged globally, including Murano glass makers and embroidery work crafted in India by the same artisans Oldham’s uncle, Todd Oldham, worked with during his fashion career in the 1990’s. The baroque pearl and shell solder work seen in the towering headpieces was created in collaboration with artist Frank Traynor of the Perfect Nothing Catalog. The collection also showcased his first step into fine jewelry with Rhodium rings set with Sapphires and Swarovski crystals, as well as his classic pieces made in solid 14K gold.
Expanding from his traditional jewelry line, the collection included bespoke clothing and footwear designed especially for the presentation, inviting attendees to immerse themselves entirely in the Presley Oldham world. Hand knit tops and thongs were adorned with pearl straps, while other clothing pieces were created using deadstock fabrics. The beaded flower bodices acted as enlarged pendants hanging from the designer’s classic necklace styles. The debuting footwear was created in collaboration with Mariano and the Portuguese Shoes Footwear Association (APICCAPS), utilizing expert craftsmanship of Portuguese artisans for a new range of sandals, mules, and heels that incorporated the brand’s celebrated pearls throughout.
The strong threads of community were reflected in the models showcasing the collection; Oldham enlisted dear friends who embody and inspire the brand, including actors Cole Escola, Jamie Clayton, and Brandon Flynn, models Roseline Lawrence, Wonhee Lee and Tomie Mar, dancer Paul Zivkovich, and James Veloria’s Brandon Giordano. Each model seen in the show wear’s Oldham jewelry, and has previously collaborated with the designer in some way. A theatrical lens was brought to the traditional runway show, evocative of a classic salon presentation meets debutante ball. Guests mingled amongst the tableaus, including comedian Amy Sedaris, actor Anna Van Patten, stylists Ian Bradley and Solange Franklin Reed, artist Brianna Lance, and musician Lizzy Plapinger.