The debut runway collection by Creative Director Casey Cadwallader signals a palpable evolution for Mugler, acknowledging the multiplicities of modern womanhood and its inherent power today. Shown meters from Mugler HQ beneath the LED dome of the Elephant Paname in Paris, the Spring 2019 collection clarifies Cadwallader’s intentions for the Mugler wardrobe as a prismatic design statement freeing colour, texture and form. Fusing the original spirit of Mugler’s visual language with material innovation and Cadwallader’s own contemporary expression, the collection builds upon the foundations of corsetry, tailoring, and flou.
Exploring this spectrum of femininity, Cadwallader considers the powerful duality of sharp construction and fluid drape, in a silhouette that ranges from second skin fabrics to floating, parachute forms. Hookand-eye closures define the contour of garments: splicing midriffs and waistbands, they invite multiple iterations of wear. Hyper-seaming defines architectural jackets and spiral denim trousers, as cycling shorts are fragmented in panelled silks and corset lacing. Ruched into curved or keyhole asymmetries, ballooning nylon and organza jersey flou play upon Mugler’s flair for volume.
Created by the British artist Samara Scott, multimedia latex pieces compose a tactile collage that evokes a microcosm of the season’s palette, from matte makeup tones to swathes of bold colour, its marbled effect echoed in bonded technical taffeta.