Evolution of Biocouture 2022
Biocouture is on the way to replace unsustainable materials in fashion. While more ecofriendly sustainable materials have broken into the couture fashion, some designers and brands support bio-design in the industry. Here is a new update on Biocouture in 2022.
Olivia Ruben SS22
Photosynthetic garments made a debut in April by knit designer Olivia Ruben. The designer unveiled the SS22 Photosynthesize collection, allowing the garments to breathe as if plants photosynthesize by exhaling oxygen and inhaling carbon dioxide.
Ruben created breathing, living, and wearable garments working with London concept store Machine-A and biotech startup Post Carbon Lab to transform the garments into living organisms like ‘a wearable plant’.
Thanks to a photosynthesis coating of the clothing, it gives each piece of the clothes the qualities to live and breathe like plants that give off oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide.
Due to its unique property of the material, they require indirect sunlight and regular misting to actively release oxygen and maintain their climate positivity.
By playing with upcycling, the collection is a humorous romantic mix inspired by 18th century garments. With vintage lace tablecloths and playful layouts of knit, it’s more than a bio design. Moreover, various fabrics complete the collection: ethical alpaca, organic wool, and linen, Tencel, old ceramic kitchenware, and even waste – empty shampoo and household cleaner bottles. Hence, you can see remnants of the upcycled materials on the garments such as barcodes, instruction stickers upon closer inspection.
Iris Van Herpen Paris Couture Week 2022
Nonetheless, Ruben is not alone in the biocouture movement. Fashion designer, Iris Van Herpen also revealed a futuristic dress. The dress embodies Belgian chocolatier’s vegan dessert, entirely made of cocoa beans. Besides, Van Herpen showcased the dress in Iris Van Herpen’s 15th Anniversary show, Paris Couture Week 2022. Surprisingly, it’s the first haute couture vegan dress in the world.
LOEWE Menswear SS 23
Luxury brand, Loewe also incorporated live plants into garments, which grows grass inside the fabric of the garment. Loewe made an amazing collaboration with Spanish textile designer, Paula Ulargui Escalona in Loewe menswear spring summer 2023 collection. The material of the clothes has a good humidity and temperature for the plants to grow in, which is developed by Paula’s research.
Although the pieces with the plant may not be commercially available, they represent a biocouture move that reflects sustainable material innovation in producing clothing.
More about the Biocouture
Biocouture, the term was coined by Suzanne Lee, a Brooklyn-based fashion designer around 2003, regarding how to make clothes from bacteria.
Biocouture means a new fashion concept of designing clothes and products using living microorganisms such as bacteria or other raw materials like wood, starch, and sugar to craft high-end clothes with delicate sewing.
Featured image via Loewe